ERMOUPOLI
The open air museum of Syros
From the imposing Town Hall in Miaouli Square and the Apollon Theater to the aristocratic mansions and the Church of Agios Nikolaos of the Rich in the Vaporia district, Ermoupoli is much more than the capital of Syros. It is an open-air museum worth exploring from end to end.
It is the main port of Syros, with ferry connections to Piraeus and Rafina and other Greek islands, and is only 3km from the airport, which has regular direct flights to Athens. There are cafes, restaurants and shops filled with life all year round.
The capital of the Cyclades
Ermoupoli is the administrative centre of Syros and the rest of the Cyclades. But it is very different from the main settlements of other Cycladic islands, known for their sugar-cubed houses and whitewashed splendor.
Instead, you are treated to neoclassical architecture and a cosmopolitan aura that can be traced back to Syros’ commercial and artistic flourishing in the 1800s, following the arrival of the refugees from surrounding Greek islands and Asia Minor after the Greek Revolution of 1821.
In the decades that followed, Syros’ new residents contributed to Ermoupoli becoming a commercial, industrial and shipping centre in Greece (second only to Athens in importance and population). It was named after Hermes, the god of commerce and messengers, and as its wealth grew so did its thriving artistic and cultural scene.
A walking tour of Ermoupoli
Strolling through the narrow streets and fascinating neighborhoods of Ermoupoli, you are instantly transported to a bygone era through monuments and buildings that represent Syros’ imperious history.
The heart of Ermoupoli is Miaouli Square, dominated by the grand Town Hall, which is still the political, social and cultural hub of the island. It is one of the biggest and most impressive town halls in Greece and a work of legendary 19th-century German architect Ernst Ziller, who was inspired by three different architectural styles.
The Archaeological Museum of Syros (one of the oldest museums in Greece) is housed in four rooms of the Town Hall, with a separate entrance on Emmanouil Benaki Street. And in nearby Vardaka Square, the Apollo Theater was designed by Italian architect Pietro Sampo, who was partly inspired by La Scala di Milano. Sampo also designed the Cultural Center of Ermoupolis in 1863, another fitting symbol of the cultural heritage of the city.
Not to be missed on any stroll around Ermoupoli is Agios Nikolaos of the Rich, a magnificent church of inestimable cultural importance. This brings you into aristocratic Vaporia, and a charming district of Ermoupoli known for the colourful mansion houses built in the 19th century. Vaporia is also popular with both locals and visitors for a quick swim followed by a coffee or sunset cocktails.
Back at the harbour, the Gallery of the Cyclades is housed in one of the original 1830s warehouses, where cargo was delivered or loaded onto visiting ships. The gallery hosts periodic art exhibitions (mainly during the summer months) and has a small theatre that stages plays and concerts.
Other museums in Ermoupoli include the Ecclesiastical Museum, the Industrial and Textile museum, the Cycladic Art Replicas Exhibition, the Historical Archives of the Cyclades and the Kyveli Institute.